Saturday, February 15, 2014

All Cones and Sulfates aren't of The DEVIL...

Let me start by saying that my information has come from years of research and experience while using products with and without these ingredients.

Silicones coat the hair and/or skin with a film. They're usually found in moisturizers, detanglers, conditioners and serums. They help smooth and soften the hair/skin and also treats and protects from dryness; it also helps protects your hair from humidity.
Silicones also provide the "slip" in many conditioners; in heat protectants it shields your hair strands from excessive heat and locks in moisture.

There are two kinds of silicones that are used in hair products: NON-Volatile and Volatile.
NON-Volatiles are NOT water soluble, which means they're difficult to remove or wash from your hair.
Volatiles ARE water soluble, which means they're easy removed or washed from your hair.

Non-volatile silicones are thick/sticky and heavy, and hard to remove from the hair strands...these are NOT good silicones.
Volatile silicones are light and runny, and easy to rinse from the hair strands...these ARE good silicones.

Listed are prefixes and suffixes of silicones that can tell you whether a cone is good or bad.

SUFFIXES:
Phenyl - BAD
Alkyl - BAD

PREFIX:
PEG - GOOD. Processed to make bad cones good...meaning the NON-Volatile Silicon was made to be more water soluble.

BAD CONES:                                                    GOOD CONES:
Dimethicone                                                       PEG-modified dimethicone
Dimethiconol                                                      Dimethicone copolyol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Amodimethicone
Cyclomethicone

Moreover, certain natural textures NEED cones to tame the hair for styling. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with using a water-soluble 'cone when you're using the appropriate sulfate shampoo to remove it later.

And since I've mentioned SULFATES, let's discuss those!
Sulfates are ingredients that produce suds...the bubbles in your shampoo. Sulfates don't only remove the dirt and old oils from your hair, they also strip your hair and scalp of its natural oils needed to keep your hair and scalp healthy. Which can cause dry, itchy scalp, and also dandruff as well as frizzy hair.
BUT using a sulfate is a must when removing 'cones from your hair. After my blowouts I lather my hair ONE good time with a sulfate shampoo and then I proceed with a sulfate-free shampoo and condition thoroughly until my moisture is restored.

Therefore, as a rule of thumb, in order to wear certain styles SUCCESSFULLY, certain silicones and sulfates are many times needed. And as long as these ingredients are those that aren't used regularly, I see no problem with using them occasionally.

Lastly, if you're sticking with your puffs and/or twistouts, you can easily get away with steering clear of these ingredients. But if you want a nice LASTING updo and/or some smoothness to your 3C/4BC hair, your best bet is to use a water-soluble cone then a sulfate to remove the cone.

DO YOUR RESEARCH!!! Using a cone/sulfate for that special occasion won't send your hair down the drain or have you leaving it on your pillow in the morning. Just make sure you're using the right ones! :)

Until next time...

Kinky Curly Beauty

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